No Place For Old Men

Description from Andy Generouxs website: https://www.ghostriverproductions.ca/resources/Yamnuska/NoPlaceForOldMenR.pdf Thank you for the immense amount of hard work that went into developing this route. Mt Yamnuska No Place for Old Men *** S-5.12b, 290m, 19 draws (2 extendable) Ross Suchy & Andy Genereux, September 12 2022 The latest project built by Andy Genereux on Mt. Yamnuska. This rig involves 9 pitches of fully bolt protected nearly impeccable rock located in the Kahl Wall area on the mountain. Started in fall of 2019, had Andy working solo coming in from the top of the mountain to built the upper 6 pitches. Winter weather intruded stalling work shortly after. Unfortunately the next spring his project became delayed by almost two years due to the Covid-19 pandemic restrictions and lengthy closures to the mountain for trail work for all of 2021. Then long periods of extremely hot weather seemingly thwarting it’s conclusion in 2022. Andy was able to redpoint the top two pitches in the spring of 2021 as part of a linkage off the route Kahl Wall with Choc Quinn that they called Heinz 57 Plus. Now considered one of the best linkages of 5.10 and low 5.11 climbing on the mountain. In the early summer of 2022 Genereux was back with renewed vigor toiling away to finish off building the bottom three pitches and some tweaking while working out the harder climbing on this massive project via top rope (rope soloing). By late June the route was completely built out on rappel. In total eight days were required to get the bolting and cleaning completed. This project was never intended as a sport route. But over it’s entire length had only 5 clean gear placements and these were generally on easier terrain. In mid-July Andy red-pointed the two lower pitches via ground up rope soloing in 25 degree heat. Then he waited nearly two months for cooler weather and a stronger partner to be available ( Ross Suchy) for a continuous free ascent of this project. In September of 2022 Andy returned with hard earned beta and his hired gun Ross Suchy. The pair free climbed the route in a continuous push. Ross on-sighting everything but the third pitch which required him to have a second go for the redpoint. Ross with his huge effort allowed for successful outcome over a long day with nearly perfect climbing temps. The pair had a combined age of 110 years thus Ross’s name for the route “No Place for Old Men” rather appropriate after how we both felt the next day. This route provides demanding technical stipple climbing with some steeper bits. It advances over some great rock and has sustained 5.10+ and mid-5.11 for most of its length. It involves a variety of techniques. A wonderful Yamnuska beauty of the modern era. Enjoy! P1: 5.10a, 30m, 10 draws Start right of a small tree growing at the base about 30m right from the start to the route Kahl Wall. Climb up a shallow left leaning corner for 12m then head up a broken corner (some loose sections) to reach a short headwall before arriving on a large ledge with ring bolts to belay. A nice easy warmup pitch. P2: 5.11c, 30m, 14 draws Move left from the belay and mount a blocky pedestal to then enter a shallow corner with difficulty. Sustained tricky face climbing to a second tricky crux. Above somewhat easier face climbing to a handrail then move right into a left leaning, left facing corner with bolts on the face. Awkward to start up the corner which leads to a good but small stance with three bolts. P3: 5.12b, 35m, 19 draws Start up from the belay on some fun juggy face climbing. Then things quickly increases in difficulty. Mostly climbs just left of the bolt line up a shallow groove over steady devious movement until underneath a roof/ bulge. Make difficult moves left on a rising traverse to gain a rounded slab below the roof (very thin awkward traverse left). Then move up and turn the overlap using a series of difficult left hand side pulls past a secondary crux, finally working up a steady series of thin face holds back right to gain a steep slab with very textured rock angling up and right to reach the semi-hanging stance. This is a sustained and demanding technical pitch that's shaped like a reverse question mark. Considered the money pitch. P4: 5.12a, 30m, 14 draws Start off right of the belay onto some tricky and sustained face climbing. At the fourth bolt make a difficult sequence right to some open handed holds which soon leads to easier more positive climbing up the shallow left facing dihedral to a bolted belay in the wide crack at the top. An excellent sustained pitch with varied technique required. The crux is definitive and hard to read but fortunately is short lived. P5: 5.10d, 23m, 12 draws Start up onto the scree ledge (part of The Milky Way) moving past the left side of a small spruce to to reach the face behind. Climb up on steady face climbing to reach a small dihedral. Climb the steep corner working a bit left to gain the face above. Finally work past some steep juggy ground moving left again at the final bolt to gain a good ledge with ring bolts to belay. P6: 5.11c, 30m, 14 draws Work off the right side of the belay and mantel up onto a thin ledge. Then make several continuous steep face moves to gain a shallow corner. Less difficult but devious and sustained face climbing is required to arrive below a bulge. From the bolt below the bulge move out right 3m then head up into a hidden short right facing corner past the final three bolts. Climb the corner to a small pedestal ledge to belay. P7: 5.12a/b, 37m, 19 draws Pre-clip the close bolt above the belay, make a couple thin moves required to leave the right side of the belay. Steady technical movement to reach a bulge. Here there are two options. The first is hard crimps straight up the second option works a little left on the bulge then up. This seems too be the easier path past two closely spaced bolts. Above continuous and sustained devious 5.11 face climbing continues all the way to the belay on a small ledge 7m right of the bolt belay for Kahl Wall pitch 7 (using the Kahl Wall belay is the more comfortable option if not in use). This pitch is a well protected mind-bending experience. P8: 5.11b, 40m, 17 draws Move left on the ledge 3m, and climb the short left facing corner located just left of the main chimney corner of the route Kahl Wall which has a belay on this same ledge a few meters left. Climb the corner to a bolt on the face on the left. Sustained face trickery continues nearly the whole way. Sustained movement in the upper 5.10 range then a couple bolts before the top deal with a definitive crux. A hard read that moves left then back right. The belay is a small semi hanging stance off ring bolts. P9: 5.10c, 30m, 10 draws. Work left from the belay on good textured face climbing up to an arching bulge. At the fourth bolt make a hard step committing right to overcome the bulge then steady but less difficult face climbing leads up into an easier corner leading to a belay on a small ledge. Walking off, exit the climb moving right from the belay and down climb a short fourth class step for 4m onto the scree shoulder above the final belay for Kahl Wall which is located 15m below the scree shoulder. Descent: It is possible to rappel the route from any belay using a single 80m rope or two 60m ropes required. However the recommendation is to have a light weight tag line and haul a small pack with your approach shoes and do the walk off option using the back side trail to the east end of the mountain. This is possibly the more efficient option and allows parties to bring food, water, and extra clothes. All belay anchors have ring-bolt belays to facilitate retreat by rappel.