Ninth Symphony

3. Ninth Symphony **** "I think it deserves four stars- has a single boulder move of 5.11c on pitch 8" 5.11a 1 bolt A0 or 5.11c MIXED 12 p Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Dean Flick, Eric Dafou; September 17th and 18th, 2010. First Ascent: Ruedi Beglinger, Dean Flick; September 22nd 2010. Gear: BD Camalots 0.5 to 2, 18 draws, 4 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes. Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor). Route: Pitch 1) (Baldwin): Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. From there, aim diagonally up to the right to the base a large corner with the first belay, 15 m. Pitch 2) (Baldwin): Traverse a few steps to the right and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.11b) to a sloping ledge above with the belay, 35 m. Pitch 3) (Baldwin): Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.7) and eventually traverse level to the left, to the large Fir tree with the belay chain, 35 m. Pitch 4) Walk diagonally up to the right for 25 meters and after aim straight up a slab and a corner (bolts, 5.4). From the upper end of this corner, scramble straight up to the 2 anchors above. Use the left-hand (west) anchor. Pitch 5) Climb straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to a sloping ledge. There traverse a few steps to the left and after keep climbing straight up to the next belay, 32 m. Pitch 6) Traverse a few steps exposed to the left, after climb straight up past a small roof (bolts, 5.11b). After this roof climb diagonally up to the right and finally follow a corner system straight up to the belay on ledge, 35 m. Pitch 7) Climb straight up to below a steep slab and a large roof. From there traverse a few meters to the right (bolts, 5.11a 1 bolt A0 or 5.11c) and after climb diagonally up to the right to a small right facing corner (bolts, 5.11a). Now climb straight up to the belay on an exposed ledge, 40 m. Pitch 8)Traverse a few meters to the right and after climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10d) until you are past a small roof. (Do not follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the right, Mystery). Instead climb straight up to the belay, located directly below a prominent overhang, 40 m. Pitch 9) Traverse 15 meters to the left, to a shallow cave with the next belay (bolts, 5.4). (Pitch 8 and 9 can be easily climbed in one long pitch). Pitch 10) Climb a tricky overhang into a right facing corner above (bolts, 5.10b). Follow this corner to the above sloping ledge. Now traverse to the right (bolts), to the belay, 35 m. Pitch 11) Climb a few meters diagonally up to the right, after traverse (bolts, 5.11b) into a right facing corner. Now move straight up this corner to the belay, located in a right facing corner and directly below a small roof, 30 m. Pitch 12) Climb a double roof (bolts, 5.10b) and after move 7 meters diagonally across a sloping ledge to the base of a large corner system. (Do not traverse to the bolts and roofs at the right, Mystery). Instead climb this corner system straight up and shortly below the top of this corner climb diagonally up to the left, across a steep wall (bolts, 5.11a), leading into a deep right facing corner above. Move up this final corner to the top of the route, 35 m. Belay on a tree.