Description:

5 Mission *** "Dean’s labor of love" 5.11b 2 bolt A0 or 5.13a MIXED 13 p
Established: Dean Flick and many friends
First Ascent: Dean Flick and John Kelly, August 2007 (5.11b 2 bolts A0)
FFA: Jonas Gessler (onsight), September 16, 2013
Gear: BD Camalots 0.5 to 4, few medium size wire nuts, 18 draws, 4 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:
Pitch 1): Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. Keep climbing straight up a series of slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the ledge above. From there traverse a few meters left to the first belay, 30 m.


Pitch 2): Climb a few steps straight up and after traverse to the right (bolts, 5.8) into a left facing corner. Now climb straight up this corner (bolts, 5.6) to the above ledge with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 3): Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.4) and after aim diagonally up to the right, to a large Fir tree with the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 4): Walk diagonally up to the right for 25 meters and after aim straight up a slab and a corner (bolts, 5.4). From the upper end of this corner, climb diagonally up to the right, to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 5): Scramble on easy ground diagonally up to the right, to the far upper corner of the Victor Ledge. Directly left (west) of a prominent large tree climb a short wall (bolts, 5.4) to a small ledge above, belay, 35 m.

Pitch 6): From the belay move 2 meters to the right and after climb a short right facing corner and the following wall (bolts) to a small roof above. From there climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10c) and eventually climb straight up. Finally traverse to the left, to the belay at a ledge, 40 m.

Pitch 7): Climb straight up to a corner, leading to the next belay (bolts, 5.9), directly below the large roof, 35 m.

Pitch 8): Climb up to the large roof and after traverse under this roof to its far left side (5.10c). From the left side of the roof climb diagonally up to the left (5.11a), to the belay, 20 m.

Pitch 9): Climb 10 meters straight up a left facing corner (5.10b), after traverse exposed to the left (bolts, 5.11b) and finally climb to a ledge with the belay, 27 m.

Pitch 10): Climb straight up a slab and a right facing corner (bolts, 5.11b 2 bolt A0 or 5.13a). After aim diagonally up to the right and eventually move straight up to the next belay, 30 m.

Pitch 11): (Do not climb the bolts at the steep left-hand wall, Mystery). Instead climb straight up a corner (5.10b) to the sloping ledge above. Now aim diagonally up to the right into a corner (bolts). Climb this corner to the ledge above, belay at the above large ledge, 35 m.

Pitch 12): Walk for a few meters to the right along the large ledge, after climb diagonally up to the right to a roof and the far right-hand arête (bolts, 5.10b). Once at the arête move into a corner and climb straight up to the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 13): Climb for 10 meters diagonally up to the left (bolts, 5.10c). After traverse exposed in between roofs to the left (bolts, 5.10a) to the belay, 25 m. Enjoy the grand vista.

Pitch 14): Climb straight up an easy slab to the large ledge above (bolt, 5.4) with the final anchor, 20 m. (Pitch 13 and 14 can easily be linked into one pitch).