Magic Compass

After a long two days of work i was able to find a path up the wall. After a much needed rest I recruited Marcus to help me do a final cleaning and try the moves. We re-jigged the second pitch after Marcus eyed a better way through the choss band and came back the following day to free the route. Approach: located approx 50m left of Living in Paradise under the large orange section of the wall. A small 4th class approach leads to the base of the route beside The Wolverine. Rope up to make it more comfortable Pitch 1: (12a, 14bolts) A long pitch up perfect vertical rock. Adventurous and pumpy, this is the perfect warmup before getting to the crux pitch. Pitch 2: (10d, 8bolts) a short traverse to get past the small choss band that cuts the entire wall. Pitch 3: (12d, 9bolts) A steep powerful line up interesting rock with many small cruxes. Don’t get ahead of yourself. Pitch 4: (12a, 7bolts) What feels like victory climbing quickly turns as you approach the top of the wall where the wall gets steeper and a bolder problem protects the chains. Descent: After celebrating at the top of the wall walk of left across a short exposed traverse and up a scree field to hikers trail. Follow the trail left past some lush waterfalls and back down to the base of the wall. Rappel: because the anchors are over the lip pulling the rope here is difficult. Walk off is easier. From pitch 3 anchor rappel down climbers right toward Living In Paradise.