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  David Baar:   Fun 5.12c-ish to the 3rd bolt, and then the route really begins. Very hard sustained boulder problem after that, maybe V10, on small sloping footholds. From just below the 3rd bolt to the top, expect to do about 7 deadpoints leftward then right/up. One way up from 3rd bolt is to pop over to the undercling on the left, then up to a couple of fingerpads per hand above that feature with some tricky changes in body position. After that, one reachy move will get left hand to a small but good horn in the vertical crack. Easy reach right from that to a good jug at the finish that you can clip anchors from (4th clip is pretty optional). Worth taping middle finger of right hand for the sharp clipping hold at 3rd bolt, otherwise you'll have a bleeding flapper there pretty quickly. Figuring out feet and body positions that work for you is crucial throughout the crux. Some absurdly detailed beta for the crux from some notes I wrote up while trying to redpoint it: starting just below 3rd bolt (B3): to get to B3, LH to top of feature in middle of diagonal. RH to sidepull part of same feature. LH to small crimp on L side of horizontal. RH to better incut R side of same horizontal edge just below B3. Clip B3 draw using LH to clip, moving rope in towards draw from right side. RH stays in incut. B3 to B4: Move left toe to lower of two triangular small pocket/features directly below vertical finishing crack (don't move feet too far left). LH from poor crimp at B3 first to 1.5cm wide two finger edge (if needed) or directly to undercling -> I used the former on RP RH to 2 finger edge left of B3 crimp (if needed) or keep back at good but sharp crimp/incut -> I did the latter on RP RF to upper triangular pocket. LF to ~1cm wide slightly downsloping rectangular edge out left. RF to small ticked toehold and drop R knee slightly, turn R shoulder in. This is my essential way of stopping the barndoor off the poor fingertip-or-less holds that come next RH has to go to edge at top right corner of bulge feature, in the bottom of the crack there. Tough to hold but can get 2-3 finger pads on it. Then, LH follows to crimp/sloper to left of it -has tiny ridge on top that helps LH hold it. Again maybe 2 finger pads wide. LF to 45 degree edge below/near the undercling beside B3, maybe before left hand goes to the great diagonal. RF goes to the left side of 1.5cm wide 1cm deep section with the B3 sharp incut that was L handhold previously. Left hand then needs to go all the way from crimp/sloper to great diagonal sidepull/horn in crack. Get up high into lockoff position first, maybe, then go, to reduce momentum. Clip B4 with RH while LH is on horn or just skip B4; you are pretty close to the anchors then anyway. RH goes to 0.5cm deep 2cm wide decent edge now at about shoulder level on right. Finally, work the feet up: RF goes to 1.5cm wide 1cm deep finger edge that used to be a RH hold, and pull with whatever ya got remaining to pop right hand to the great finishing bulge with great edge on top. Essentially a jug. Can also clip B4 with LH while RH is on the jug, if you want to bother, or just clip the anchors right away.

Recent Sendage:

• _{5.13d ^↓}
  
  Brennan Doyle

  _2018-05-26
  Great Climb! The last move was a struggle!
• _5.13d
  
  David Baar

  _2017-09-16
  Outstanding gymnastic, bouldery route with a 7-deadpoint crux on thin feet at the top from 3rd to 4th bolt. Especially challenging because some of the holds are so sharp and the crux is up high; it's hard to do more than a few tries in a session due to fingertip wear. Hard route to grade but I'd put it at the hard end of 5.13.