Description:

45. The Last Tango *** 10a MIXED 16 p
Established up to pitch 11: Ruedi Beglinger, Cam Molder on Sept. 18, 2008.
Established rest of route and FFA: Ruedi Beglinger, Urs Kallen, Dean Flick, Sept. 19, 2008.
Important: There might be climbers lower on the route... do not drop rocks!!!
Gear: Pro 0.3 to 3 inches, 14 quickdraws, five shoulder-size slings.
Approach: From Canada West Campground.
Start: At the upper end of the creek gully (bolts). Same start as for The Noose and Eternity.
Route: Amazing climbing with great exposure in upper part of the route.
Pitch 1 to 4: Follow the many bolts up easier terrain up to 5.7 to the lower edge of a large ledge. 35 to 60 meter pitches.

Pitch 5: Climb onto the ledge and diagonally to the left walk across this large ledge to the base of a large slab. There climb diagonally up to the right, past a little roof to the belay above, 50 meters.

Pitch 6: Do not follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the left, instead follow the bolts leading straight up easy slabs, 5.6, to the belay at a ledge above, 60 meters.

Pitch 7: Climb diagonally up to the left, 5.8, across slabs to the next belay at a small ledge, 45 meters.

Pitch 8 to 10: Climb straight up, following the many bolts to a large ledge, 5.9 to 5.10a, 40 meter pitches.

Pitch 11: Climb straight up to the upper end of the large ledge, there make a few steps to the right and follow several bolts, 5.8, as you climb the right side of an overhanging cliff to a ledge above, 35 meters.

Pitch 12 to 16: Climb straight up to the top of the climb, 5.7 to 5.10a, following the many bolts, 35 to 40 meter pitches.

Descent: Walk down the trail back to the Canada West Campground, 1 hour. From the top of the climb walk down the trail towards the rappel route of the Hanging Judge. Near the top of the Hanging Judge and Convicted you will find a large tree with two clothing hooks. From this tree walk an additional 30 meters downhill. There turn off to the left and follow the marked trail down to the power-line, 40 minutes. At the power-line walk along a small road past a power-line mast, then walk down a steep bench to the road below. Now follow the road to the Canada West Campground, 1 hour from the top of the Columbia Buttress.