Description:

2. Last Spike *** "Incredible route with lots of superb climbing" 5.10d MIXED 10 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Cam Molder and Eric Dafoe, September 2012
First Ascent: Two rope parties, Ruedi Beglinger / Cam Molder and Eric Dafoe / Manuela Arnold, September 30 2012.
Gear: BD Camalots 0.2 to 2, 15 draws, 4 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:
Pitch 1: (The Mission): Climb past the base-roof up the deep corner to the first bolt, keep climbing straight up a series of slabs, following several bolts (5.7) to the above ledge. From there traverse a few meters left to the first belay, 30 meters.

Pitch 2: (The Mission): Climb a few steps straight up and after traverse to the right (bolts, 5.8) into a left facing corner. Now climb straight up this corner (bolts, 5.6) to the above ledge with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 3: (The Mission): Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.4) and after aim diagonally up to the right, to a large Fir tree with the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 4: Walk diagonally up to the right for 25 meters and after aim straight up a slab and a corner (bolts, 5.4). From the upper end of this corner traverse for 25 meters diagonally up to the left or in wets direction (bolt), across easier terrain to the belay, located at a small left facing corner, 55 m.

Pitch 5: Climb straight up for 20 meters (bolts, 5.9), after traverse to the left for several meters and finally climb diagonally up to the left (bolts, 5.9) to the belay directly above a small corner and a roof, 40 m.

Pitch 6: Traverse for a few meters to the right and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.10c) to a prominent corner. Climb this corner for 15 meters, after traverse exposed to the right and finally climb a steep flake (bolts, 5.10d) to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 7: Traverse exposed to the right, into a corner system. Now climb straight up this corner-system (bolts, 5.10b) to a narrow ledge directly below an overhang. There traverse to the left (caution rope drag, use long slings) for a few meters, onto a larger ledge. Now climb straight up to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 8: Climb a short wall (bolts, 5.8) to the above large ledge. From there scramble up easy terrain to a prominent corner with a short wall. Climb this wall (bolts 5.10c) to the above sloping ledge. Now move diagonally up to the right, up easy slabs (bolts, 5.6) to the far right-hand arête. 35 m.

Pitch 9: Climb straight up a steep broken buttress to the above large ledge (bolts, 5.8). There move a few steps diagonally up to the right and after climb straight up a wall with horizontal in-cuts (bolts, 5.9) to the next belay, 32 m.

Pitch 10: Climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10c), to the prominent steep arête. Step around this arête and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.10c) to its upper end with the belay, 25 m. (The first ascend climbed the arête completely on the left side, 5.11c).