Show Beta
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nathanchow: I started with a right foot start with a slight backflag to then launch from the right foot after securing the second handhold with the left hand. It avoided the awkward footswitch and then was more natural to go dynamic from. Might be short person beta. -
francochan: Dynamically went for the jug on the lip instead of doing the high tension roof with no feet
Recent Sendage:
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Might be the most fun V4 in the Glen!
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Top section is underwhelming compared to the burly cave section.
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Gym bro climb which actually climbs very delicate. Benchmark 4 imo, idk why some rated this as 3.
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Super happy with this send, no feet but jug hands
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2024-09-01sick hook -
Felt like it was on the harder end of V4s. Great introduction to steep cave climbing, just wish it had a better finish as it feels awkward, and leaves you longing for more as you stand up at the top.
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Blew my flash cuz I foot slipped
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Added quite a bit of difficulty to the stand version. Holds were soaked so not sure if that's why. Got the beta dialed half a move at a time. Borderline V5 imo but maybe different on a dry day so cannot confidently upgrade.
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Burly
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2022-05-29
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My first true v4 by consensus of my betters. This climb taught me a lot. Looking at footage of my failed attempts, there were many times I "hit" the big move to the cube, but let myself fall due to lack of confidence, or my body's natural fear of losing skin or... something. Had to remember to just squeeze and trust. Really glad I took this one on.
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Big first move with nonexistent shitty feet -
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2021-05-18Fucking c’mon!
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Surely there was a big break after someone called this a 3? As Thomas said, 4 even feels a little sandbagged. But maybe it was the spicy beta.
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First time in the black cave!
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Good holds with big moves. Fun! -
Awesome climb! V4 is a little sandbagged. -
Burly, enjoyable climbing. -
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Hold the tension and imagine that's great foot hold to start.
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Good fun getting to a match on the lip, not the most enjoyable top section https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnfFyJjQmzQ -
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Burly fun moves, high heel helped going over the lip -
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The start was terrible, but after that it isn't so bad. All the starting foot holds were so polished. The description where to start was a bit ambiguous. Not sure what "block" they were talking about but we started on a jug which we used as an undercling.
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2017-06-03 -
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amazing problem. Different variations to start and finish , only start alone bumps grade to V4 -
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Sent it after giving up on figuring out what to do with my feet. Brawn over brains! -
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Proudest V3 send ever!
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2014-04-18 -
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Was really hard until I found a beta that was right for me. I prefer a heel hook instead of a bicycle pinch on the starting hold.
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Started on loose block under the overhang, threw right hand all the way back to the juggy V, bumped left twice through both holds, heel hooked, and topped out
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One of my favs in the Glen.
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Glassy feet. Had to improvise.
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Some people graded this a 3... and I took that personally
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The start jug broke so it's probably more like v3/4. Started on the lowest chalked up flake
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onsights7
flashes56
redpointsTotal Sends: 63
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