High Octane – 5.12c


4 bolts

Description:

Crux is between first and second bolt. Work up to two finger pocket with LH, crank through a really bad intermediate crimp to first sloper with RH bring LF (for short people) to tiny little ripple in the rock just over the mini roof and bump RH to next sloper. Bring LH back to first sloper then bump RH to side pull, stand and grab crimp rail to the right of second bolt. The rest of the climb is 10ish.

Enjoy.

P.S. Contrived route, everything to the right of bulge is out, the problem is fairly direct of bolt line.

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12b
    2026-06-15
    Did what I think the original intended line is avoiding the arete and anything to the right of it (pretty close to the beta in the description). Still felt more 12a/b than c/d
  • 5.12b
    Send train with the dyl
  • 5.11d
    2019-07-27
  • 5.11d
    2019-05-11
    12d in the guide book?? For sure not. This climb is 11d max. Needs to be corrected.
  • 5.12c
    2015-10-07
    New guidebook will be calling it a 12d but it's pretty easy if your tall, short people will have to use a tiny ripple in the wall to reach the final sloper while tall people get a massive ledge. Don't like to play the height card so downgrading it to 12c feels legit.