The Hanging Judge

47. The Hanging Judge *** 10b MIXED 5 p Established, FFA: Ruedi Beglinger, Nicoline Beglinger, June 25, 2008. Important: There might be climbers lower on the route... do not drop rocks!!! Gear: Pro to 2 inches, 16 quickdraws, several shoulder-size slings, one 70 meter rope or double 60 meter. Approach: From top of the Columbia Buttress, 11 km parking at Boulder Mountain logging road, page 53 and 54. Start: Start at the base of a steep slab with a small roof and a shallow buttress to the left (west) and the large rappelling dihedral to the right (east), two bolts with rings. Same start as for Convicted. Route: Pitch 1: From the belay at the base of the steep slab just left (west) of the large rappelling dihedral climb a shallow buttress to its upper end, 5.9. Then step to the left into a deep corner and onto a long slab. Climb this slab diagonally up to the left, 5.8, to the belay at the lower end of a long left-facing corner, 60 meters. Pitch 2: Climb straight up to above a small roof, 5.9. From there climb diagonally up to the left into a deep right-facing corner with a roof, 5.10a. Now step to the right and climb a large flake to ledges above, keep going straight up to the belay, located below a ledge, 50 meters. Pitch 3: Climb onto the ledge above the belay and then follow the bolts level to the left, to the belay, which is located directly below and slightly to the right of a large left-facing corner, 30 meters. At the ledge do not take the bolts leading straight up into a deep overhang. Pitch 4 and 5: Climb the left face of the deep left-facing corner, following the many bolts, to the top of the climb, 5.9 to 5.10b, 40 to 45 meter pitches. Descent: Walk along the trail back up to the 11 km parking area at the Boulder Mountain logging road, 3 minutes from the top of the climb.