Great West Couloir - winter – 5.7 (trad)


FA: philipstone - 2014-12-30

Description:

Because it is at the farthest point on the mountain from the usual access up the Elk River Trail this otherwise very obvious feature has been long overlooked as a way to reach the summit. But in fact although it takes a little extra time to traverse from the south col to the couloir in the middle of the west face it ultimately saves a lot of time that is otherwise spent traversing the summit ridge on loose, choosy terrain. Safe to say this is the best, fastest way to climb and descend to and from the Main Summit of Mt Colonel Foster.

Follow the access route up the Elk River Trail to the South Col. Ascend a boulderfield, to a small shoulder at the southwest corner of the base of the upper mountain and then traverse below the West Face to a prominent rib that runs down the face to a flat, treed sub-alpine meadow (the West Shoulder). Hike up the rib to the base of the rock and locate a narrow ledge that cuts into the base of the Great West Couloir proper. The couloir holds snow late in the year but expect either seasonal snow or scree. Climb the low angle gully up for about 250m to a last 50m steep step (AI 1 or 4th class). The top of the couloir is at the upper glacier on the summit ridge. Follow the summit ridge north to the main summit. Details in the local guidebook - Island Alpine Select.

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.7
    2014-12-30 (FA)
    We climbed this route in winter. It was a bit committing to be that far out but the technical difficulty is low. It's not usual to change the culture of a mountain in this day and age but this route is a much faster and safer option compared to the other routes from either end along the summit ridge.