Description:

1. Grande Finale **** "Steep climbing and amazing exposure" 5.11b 3 bolts A0 or 5.12c MIXED 11 p
Established / First Ascent: Ruedi Beglinger and Alex Geary, Sep. Oct. 2013 (5.12a A0)
FFA: Ruedi Beglinger, October 21 2013
Gear: BD Camalots 0.3 to 1, 18 draws, 2 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:
Pitch 1: (The Mission): Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. Keep climbing straight up a series of slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the ledge above. From there traverse a few meters left to the first belay, 30 m.


Pitch 2: (The Mission): Climb a few steps straight up and after traverse to the right (bolts, 5.8) into a left facing corner. Now climb straight up this corner (bolts, 5.6) to the above ledge with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 3: (The Mission): Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.4) and after aim diagonally up to the right, to a large Fir tree with the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 4: Walk and scramble level to the left or in west direction (bolts) to the next belay, located at the base of a slab, 40 m. (With a full 70 meter rope you can bypass the 3rd belay (large Fir tree) and go directly to the 4th belay).

Pitch 5) Climb diagonally up a slab and the following wall (bolts, 5.6) to the next belay near the exposed gray buttress, 30 m.

Pitch 6) Traverse for a few meters to the left and after climb tricky straight up (bolts, 5.11b) the steep buttress, to the narrow ledge above with the belay, 25 m.

Pitch 7) Traverse for a few steps to the left and after climb straight up a steep wall (bolts, 5.11a) to the next belay, 37 m.

Pitch 8) Climb diagonally up to the right (bolts), to below a roof. There traverse a few meters to the right (bolt) and after climb straight up past the roof and a steep slab (bolts, 5.10a) to a ledge above. There aim diagonally up to the right to a chimney. Climb this chimney (5.4) to the ledge above with the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 9) Climb straight up a steep slab (bolts, 5.10c) to the fourth bolt. There traverse for several meters to the right, to a cut-off tree. Now climb straight up to a second cut-off tree and finally walk diagonally up to the left across a large ledge to the base of the final wall, anchor, 50 m. (If you have to bail: Half way up pitch 9, from the first cut-off tree keep traversing to the right and climb the final three pitches of The Last Spike. 5.9 to 5.10c, you should have enough gear for this alternative finish).

Pitch 10) Climb diagonally up to the left up a steep roof (bolts, 5.10d) to a slab above. From there climb straight up to a small ledge. Keep climbing straight up (bolts, 5.11b 3 bolts A0 or 5.12c) to the exposed belay (all bolts), 35 m. Lots of great exposure.

Pitch 11) Climb diagonally up to the left into a narrow corner (bolt, 5.11a). Follow this corner to below the large roof above. From there, aim diagonally up to the far left corner of the roof (bolts). Now climb straight up the final wall (bolts, 5.10c) to the top anchor of the route, 35 m. Enjoy the grand vista.