Enola Gay – 5.12a


FA: Andrew Murray - 2022-05-07

Description:

3 pitches, sport, 16 quickdraws, FFA: Andrew Murray 2022
Climbs the steep righthand side of the cliff.

Pitch 1, 5.10a, 24m: Start to the left of a low overhanging cave. Follow the bolts trending right along clean rock to a shallow corner. Gain a nice ledge to a belay with a 2 bolt ring anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.11c, 26m: Climb a short crack and follow the bolts up a steep face. Move slightly right and climb the airy slab to a nice ledge to 2 bolt ring anchor.

Pitch 3, 5.12a, 30m: follow the bolts heading out up and right. Make a blind move traversing around an arete to a clean vertical slab with a small crack above on the left. Climb this technical rock face by working a textured sloper or the crack to a solid pocket and beyond, 5.12a. It is possible to stick clip or aid the bolts through the crux. Continue to climb the sustained vertical wall to the top.

Rappel the route to descend. Stay as far left as you can when rappelling the top pitch. Some momentum might be needed to swing back to the ledge and the anchor at the top of pitch 2. Be sure to tie knots in the ends of your rope!
Enola Gay, the B-29bomber that was used by the United States on August 6, 1945, to drop an atomic bomb on Hiroshima, Japan, the aircraft was named after the mother of pilot Paul Warfield Tibbets, Jr.

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12a
    2022-05-07 (FA)
    A pretty cool route that gets harder as you ascend. Read the description for more information. It saw a second ascent in the fall 2023