Recent Sendage:

• _V9
  
  Jake Tiger

  _{2024-09-08 (FA)}
  The idea for climbing this line was conceived last year, while I was doing other lines on this massive boulder and couldn’t help but to notice it. Such a tall distinct prow that forms the most distinguished feature of the rock. I went for a reconnaissance mission on a cold February morning, in the rain, to repel down the spine and find a potential line. I found the path and the seed was planted. With plans to leave Squamish for 3.5 months, late spring, the hunt was on, and the urge to send it before leaving was strong. I spent two more sessions cleaning and sussing out moves. I found the clear path from ~12 foot mark to the top. An easy boulder sequence with a crux around v2/3ish. The tricky part was figuring how to get to that 12 foot mark jug from the ground. I tried for a couple sessions going directly from underneath it, at the bottom of the prow, straight up. It has an obvious starting sequence but also unfortunately with about a 6 foot gap of no holds. So that felt fruitless. However during inspection earlier on a rope I saw a line of edges coming from the left side. They seemed too far laterally from the jug but when practicing it from a pad stack, I linked it from the crimps to the jug with a flailing, swinging latch. Then trying it from the crimps was the clear answer. The crux revolves around this heinous little crimp that kept splitting my fingers open after only a handful of tries. Antihydral became my best friend and gave me the armour plated finger tips that I needed to make it through and to the top. Absolutely sensational experience on this one. It drove me insane thinking about this line the whole time I was away out East. Also knowing I couldn’t attempt it for a week and a half after splitting on it, for a couple sessions, dragged out the anticipation of the send. One of the prettiest granite lines I’ve ever ascended. . . . . Oh and about the grade…it’s hard for me to tell. Tiny sharp crimps aren’t really my specialty. Someone with drier and/or tougher skin may dominate that crimp. For me it felt challenging for sure but equally parts strength oriented as well as technical.