The Devil's Tongue – 5.12a
Description:
(3 pitches)
P1 - 12a - 15 bolts, 2 bolt anchor - Climb the black face past the crux to a solid rest. Continue past 2nd crus up high and enter into the crack just before the roof. Pull the roof to find anchor above.
P2 - 11d - 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor - Climb up insecure, exposed grey slab to a small overhang. Continue up and past the tufa features (a little crumbly), to anchor below the dihedral.
P3 - 5.9+ - 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor - Pull a small roof to gain the lower dihedral ramp features. Scamper up the ramp with huge exposure. Great pitch! be careful of the crumbly orange rock up there. Finishes on anchor of third pitch for Thunderkiss.
Descent: Rappel straight down to anchor of 100 Bottles of Beer or Blazing Saddles. Then rap to ground.
Recent Sendage:
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2020-12-18Only climbed first pitch, but what a fight! It's on you from the very start, and has varied engaging climbing for the whole 115ft, with two technical well-bolted cruxes. Climbing the tongue and gaining the roof put the icing on the cake. Total classic! -
2020-02-11
