Creature of the Mist – 5.11d

FA: Marcel Aarden - 2020-12-01

Description:   (under review)

A five pitch, adventurous, alpine big wall style climb at Horne? Yep.

70 meter rope required
15 quickdraws (3 extendables recommended)

Pitch 1 - 5.9 / 5.11a Either climb Bucket List 5.9, or Energy Crisis 5.11a that goes directly up from the fixed rope going to boss wall (chain dangling from lip)
Pitch 2 - 5.10d Head up and left from the belay in a wild position, standing on a juniper to clip the first bolt. Continue trending left carefully through a somewhat dirty and blocky section, before a few harder moves lead to the belay.
Pitch 3 - 5.11d Straight up from the belay, find a first small roof with a sharp move. Continue to the big intimidating roof. Enjoy a glory knee bar, and a fun and engaging roof sequence. Top out over the roof.
Pitch 4 - 5.11b Potrero style vertical climbing. Head up and left. Very fun , balancy movement, with a very defined crux gaining a lip on small chert bands. Belay at big tree.
Pitch 5 - 5.11a Quest up the brilliant last headwall on nice rock. Top out the headwall, then amble over a small slab (protected by a bolt). Climb straight up to the big tree anchor.

Descent: Hike off or rappel.

If hiking, used the fixed lines to navigate the ledge system. ***Be cautious around a tree about 50 meters from the last anchor. There is a bear or some creature in the tree, two winters in a row. It likely won't come out, but make your presence quiet and don't dawdle around the tree. The route is named after this creature. ****
Keep traversing the ledge and eventually join up with the stratosphere trail. Hike down.

If rappelling, rappel the 5th pitch with a slight pendulum at the bottom. The 4th pitch must be backclipped on the rappel (fixed carabiners on the wall as of Dec 2020) or you will end up in space out to the left. Rappel the third pitch. From the top of 2nd, rappel straight down about 30-35m to find an anchor from a boss wall far right climb. Rappel this to the ground.

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.11d
    Finally freed the pitches. Pitch 2 is still a bit dirty but hopefully it will clean up in time with more traffic! The rest is stellar. Really enjoyed starting with bucket list 5.9 , its a good way to warm up for the last 4 pitches and build confidence. Walked off, no creature in the tree as of April 7 2021
  • 5.11d
    2020-12-01 (FA)
    All around really fun multi. Thanks for all the work Kris! P2 is dirty and a bit chossy but you'll be rewarded with 3 nice pitches to the top. Well worth starting the 5.11 for full value.