Convicted

48. Convicted *** 11b MIXED 6 p Established, FFA: Ruedi Beglinger, Dean Flick, September 10, 2008. Important: There might be climbers lower on the route... do not drop rocks!!! Gear: Pro to 2 inches, 16 quickdraws, several shoulder-size slings, one 70 meter rope or double 60 meter. Approach: From top of the Columbia Buttress, 11 km parking at Boulder Mountain logging-road, page 53 and 54. Start: At the base of a steep slab with a small roof and a shallow buttress to the left (west) and the large rappelling dihedral to the right (east), two bolts with rings. Same start as for The Hanging Judge. Route: Amazing exposure as you pull the roof and climb the above face on pitch 5. Pitch 1: From the belay at the base of the steep slab just left (west) of the large rappelling dihedral climb a shallow buttress to its upper end, 5.9. Then step to the left into a deep corner and onto a long slab. Climb this slab diagonally up to the left, 5.8, to the belay at the lower end of a long left-facing corner, 60 meters. Pitch 2: Climb straight up to above a small roof, 5.9. From there climb diagonally up to the left into a deep right-facing corner with a roof, 5.10a. Now step to the right and climb a large flake to ledges above, keep going straight up to the belay, located below a ledge, 50 meters. Pitch 3: Climb onto the ledge above the belay and then follow the bolts leading straight up, 5.6, to a deep overhang with the next belay, 20 meters. Do not traverse along the bolts to the left (west). Pitch 4 and 5: Follow the many bolts straight up to a small ledge above an exposed roof, 30 meter pitches, 5.11a to 5.11b. Pitch 6: Traverse to the right (east), 5.8, and follow the many bolts to the top of the route, 30 meters. Superb exposure over the Columbia Valley. Descent: Walk along the trail back up to the 11 km parking area at the Boulder Mountain logging road, 3 minutes from the top of the climb.