Contraception – 5.13d


FA: Maddy Marchuk - 2019-09-25

Description:

Climb Conception to the upper roof. Instead of escaping left, fire a hard boulder straight out the middle of the roof onto the slab above. There is no conventional anchors, there is a bell where the route ends…Ring the bell and take the whip into the crisp Bow Valley air...outstanding position!

2020 UPDATE - The last bolt was moved higher (above the final roof) and a chain added so the slab holds could be viewed and brushed. This last bolt may be difficult to clip on red-point. It is not advisable to add a short draw to the last bolt as the rope will run over the sharp lip of the roof.

30m - 15 Bolts

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.13d
    2020-09-14
    Ring. Dat. 🔔. Amazing Marchuk route with spectacular positions. Will be curious what others think of this line and if they find my greasy beta. Thx to all who supported me on this late summer project. Stoked!!!
  • 5.13d
    2019-09-25 (FA)
    Very happy to finish off this new rig on what might be the last day for Acephale in 2019. If you send it...Ring that bell loud and fly! As for the grade, feels like 13+ (for me it was much harder than any of the other 13cs at Acephale), but if it settles at 13c it wont hurt my feelings.