If you're coming from the water, go directly up hill at the very large split log (just east when travelling from bizarro) and it's a large point boulder on the left. Bring a lot of pads. The SDS is Cry for Deliverance.
First move took many attempts... Not too bad when decent foot beta was discovered. The remainder of the climb is easy for the grade yet very enjoyable.... and high! Repeat Oct 21/17 - started on lower right hand side-pull as per guide - still soft I think