Choss Baby – 5.12c


FA: Zach Watson - 2021-09-09

Description:

Except for the 2nd pitch, the climbing is on amazing rock with technical and thought-provoking movement
Approach:
Park at the Ratsnest cave parking area, follow the Ratsnest Cave trail for approximately 10min to a fork on the left that leads to a powerline. Follow the powerline west down to where a trail turns right into the forest. Follow this trail to an old road until you reach the drainage below the canyon. Follow the drainage until you reach the route near the base of a ramp angling up and to the right and find the climb front and center at the back of the canyon.

Pitch 1: 50m
12b 21bolts
Start just to the right of boatswain, climb easier slabby terrain to a ledge then continue above following a ramp up and right. As the wall steepens the difficulty increases, climb through two cruxes separated by a rest on amazing technical rock.
Pitch 2: 35m
12c 16bolts
from the ledge climb the crack on the right then traverse left wandering back into the crack and a chossy ledge, climb through a few powerful moves then traverse delicately left through hanging flakes. From here climb the main crux through the mini roof. After pulling the roof a delicate slabby traverse leads to a small ledge and belay, stop here or alternatively continue above to a nicer ledge. Rope drag can be a problem if using this option.
Pitch 3: 35m
12a 14bolts
From the first anchor option, climb a sharp corner on the right then traverse left into a right facing corner and easier climbing leads to a committing move off a hanging pillar leading to a cool pinch block feature. Belay from the small ledge
Pitch 4: 35m
11c 15 bolts
From the belay climb up and right through various corners occasionally leaving the corner for easier slabby terrain on the right. The climb ends on a large scree ledge.

Descent
To rap the route you need a 70m rope rap straight down from the scree ledge to the top of pitch 3, then rap to the further anchor and smaller ledge on pitch 2 this requires swinging slightly to the left. from here rap straight down to a separate anchor hidden below an orange roof keeping some swing helps to stay closer to the wall. the final rap leads to the scree upslope of the start of the climb

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12c
    2021-09-09 (FA)
    Great day with jay finishing off a line I originally bolted a few years ago with Morgan. Little bit of choss for a lot of amazing climbing.