Cataract Arete

Cataract Arete is one of the most aesthetic alpine features on Vancouver Island. It rises from a deep notch in the face where the water draining from the upper glacier cuts through a canyon and pours out over the lower face. The arete itself is a beautiful arcing knife-edge that runs diagonally up and across the upper two-thirds of the face before curving in to meet the summit ridge at the upper glacier. The lower route is easy 3rd and 4th class scrambling up open slabs and the lower of two parallel angled gullies to reach a small shoulder overlooking the cataract. A committing rappel (55m) down into the deep-cut notch by the side of the small, fast-flowing waterfall. Climb water-polished rock over a small bulge (5.7) to get out of the notch and onto the main arete. Follow the arete close to its skyline edge for ~800m (yes you read that right) to the snow/ice of the upper glacier. In late season crampons may be required to ascend the glacier - soon this ice will be melted off for good.