Bloodlust – V11
Description:
Found on the Squirrel Patrol boulder, just behind King For a Day. Start on slopy sidepull for RH and meathook the arete for LH. Climb a series of sharp crimps to a huck out left to a sloper. Topout on a jug at the peak
Recent Sendage:
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2025-05-01 (FA)This was quite the journey. Maybe seven or so sessions between now and January. I figured the beta out in the first couple sessions but linking the beginning to that big throw out left was a real struggle. The right hand for that move is just a miserable little crystal and the foothold is a shit smear, so it would often slip sending me into the slopped landing. I was awestruck by this lines beauty when I first stumbled upon it on a walk with Lilou. I figured it would be some kind of steep lip traverse but when I got to scrubbing it, I quickly learned that it was not at all going to climb the way I had envisioned it. A series of sharp crimps appeared under the moss inset from the lip. Some of them only holdable with a knee scum. I think I may have maxed out around 8 attempts in a session before I was split and bleeding from my fingertips. Honestly not my favourite style of climbing but I knew I just had to connect the dots and see this line completed. I’m unsure of the grade. I think it could be the hardest line I’ve ever developed. Future repeats will yield consensus, I hope.
