Black Magic – 5.12d


10 bolts

Description:

Jump start off the boulder to the jug.

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12d
    2019-10-12
    Got it 3rd go fast send of the grade this far
  • 5.12d
    2019-09-29
    Jump is cool if you can do it, but definitely the crux if you're a short person with no history of comp climbing, long jump or basketball. Got the beta from Reed and Nic last Saturday, crucial heel/intermediate hold beta from Lohan last Sunday, and sent today the first time I stuck the jump (disclosure: jumped from a crash pad. It was very fun). Good lock off training and cool holds at the baby tooth--> perfect pinch section. More subtle than Artifact, and also easier for me... cuz you only have to do 3 moves between rests, which is exactly what my lazy, low-metabolic bod likes (didn't use the rest out right that people scoff at though!). Slept up here in the car (and ate an entire bag of chips) with Jake two weekends in a row to take advantage of the arrival of lovely fall weather (and because we're gross). Left the crag early to move apartments!
  • 5.12d
    2013-05-08
    12d/13a 2nd try...happy with that:)