Birdemic – 5.11b

FA: Zach Watson - 2020-07-26


Park at the rats nest cave parking area, Follow the trail for Rat's Nest Cave to a fork on the left that leads to a powerline. Follow the powerline west down to where a trail turns right into the forest. Follow this trail and an old road until you reach the drainage below the canyon. Follow the trail to apocalypse until you reach the drainage for the third time, from here continue up the drainage to the back of the canyon. At the back of the canyon a ramp angles up and to the left. follow the ramp all the way around the corner until you find the approach pitch just right of a small gully. After climbing the approach pitch or scrambling up the gully head left and up a small step to the base of the climb.

Approach pitch 5.5: 6 bolts
Climb past several small ledges to an anchor to the right of a small tree.

Pitch 1 5.10a: 13 bolts
Climb up a small right facing corner then trend right through slabby terrain to a ledge and anchor.

Pitch 2 5.10b: 9 bolts
Traverse straight right from the anchor then trend right through a groove and eventually over a small roof ending at a ledge and anchor.

Pitch 3 5.10a: 10 bolts
Head above the anchor trending slightly to the left and up to a large ledge and anchor.

Pitch 4 5.11b: 17 bolts
From the ledge head up great rock starting left of the anchor and through the crux at a steep bulge ending at a small ledge just below the lip of the wall.

Rap the route with a single 70 a 60 might just be long enough. To reverse the traverse on pitch three clip draws on the traverse and pull the second to the anchor. Rapping the approach pitch is highly recommended

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.11b
    2020-07-26 (FA)
    Great day getting the FA with my parents