Autobody – V8
Description:
Also known as Fixing the Car
Show Beta
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Zach Y: Went right hand first, seems like it cut out a bunch of messing around at the start and your right foot just ends up in the toe hook. It's great. https://www.instagram.com/p/Cscq3QGAHt2/ -
tappin: 2nd session
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wvictor: Palming the pinch hold makes it much easier
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colebarber: Right heel to bump right hand from the sloper to the good pinch. Switch the heel to a toe after.
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Jonathan Tsay: I toe instead of heel, and some smart hand positioning allows for a right hand throw instead of a left to skip some moves. Thanks Nate!
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Greg Bauch: Right hand out of the cave. Right toe down. Left undercling. Right to the good lip hold. -
ryannelson: Hard right toe on a single crystal!
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Evan Waugh: Left heel at start is key. Right hand to lip. -
lukedavidalden: I'm tall
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ryanolson: I did a cool toe/heel hook walk out right after getting the lip and the undercling. It made the move up to the shelf more controlled.
Recent Sendage:
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Woo! Fun and unique moves from start to finish. Both burly and technical. 4 sessions total -
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Really fun roof climbing into a tricky transition! Lost a star because the bump took some forearm skin from me
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Super fun! Love the recycle move.
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Figured out all the moves on the first session, but took another four to link it together :( super fun moves though!
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Top 100 worthy. Great day in the forest
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2024-05-20
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2nd go, pretty stoked! Massive holds on big moves, amazing boulder
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4th go pull to stick first move and then the top was easily found, sick moves out of a roof. Very delicate transition -
Such an epic boulder!! The top felt really hard for me -
Glad to take this down after running out of time at the end of last season. -
2023-11-29 -
2023-11-28
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One of the coolest sequences ever. So many wonderful and complex things happening in this relatively short climb.
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Really fun roof moves
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Couldn’t do the first move for like 20 tries. Did it once and than it felt chill
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2023-09-012nd go
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Fun moves! 2nd session
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Roof climbs r nice -
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tried this when fresh the other day and couldn't do a single move, but i think i was just feeling kind of bad that day. came back after a morning/early afternoon doing 3 new-to-me rigs, and put it together in like...an hour. first move required me to move from a decorative heel hook to actually using my heel. big throw required belief: felt a mile away, figured what the heck, overshot the hold first try. kind of a spicy top. overall fun and satisfying to do after nearly writing it off, but also kind of painful on the skin
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Revenge after 4 years away.
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Simpler and more powerful than fixing an actual car
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2023-06-181st 8! -
smashed my ankle against some rock after cutting feet on first move and then proceeded to hate send this. 1s, couple tries -
2023-06-03 -
Amazing movement in this small roof. Not as straight forward as it looks. I think I would give it 5 stars if I didn’t donate so much skin to the chunky top out side pull!
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2023-05-27Super fun! My first v8 flash
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End of an era! -
Fun!
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Very fun. Right hand bump to the good hold felt huge.
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Cool climb, shredded my right hand. Definitely go right hand first. -
Feels.harder than you think at first and then easier than you think -
Super fun but felt a tad soft
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I love the love the movement on this climb.
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very sweet, should be a top 100 imo
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Sent this in the dark, alone, 2 pads, negative degrees, 1 joint, 1 beer -
Meaty
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This should be a top 100 if it isn’t already!! Tried this one back when I was working 6’s and it felt impossible. Very rewarding to come back years later and tick it in a couple goes! Portable turf is the new no dab pad thanks Jay :) -
Two tries! Surprised myself hehehe -
Fell on the flash go on the mantle with a foo slip. Got it on second go
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Love the bottom sequence but hate the mantle which is the only thing keeping this from getting five stars from me.
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2022-08-19
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1 session. Kneebar to start into another super sneaky kneebar to gain the lip (definitely kicks down the grade if you're long enough). Ran a send train on this with my buddy with 2 completely opposite betas. Big Ws all around. -
Big powerful moves on good holds. Really fun! -
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Scrunchy start leads to a nice reach around. I like the clock sequence on the undercling. Challenging mantle. I liked this one despite the dabbyness -
Great Boulder!! 2nd try -
Super cool. Messed up the beta a couple times and then fired it to finish off an excellent day :D -
best V8 in Squamish
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2021-05-25
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It güd -
My style! love the horizontal transition to the slab. 4 sessions
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Handful of goes, once i got er goin -
2021-01-21 -
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Nemisis send, yeeeeeeeeeeesssssssssss! Beta was wired, temps perfect, even hit the last sloper too far left. Holy what a battle that was over the years. Stoked!
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2020-10-30 -
Flailed till I didn't. Didn't think this was possible after big sessions on the bulb and the seam in the morning. -
Amazing burly roof moves! Loved the sequence I found going out with my left hand on the first move. Getting both feet on the face was the crux for me.
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The more ape index the better ! -
Really fun climb. Probably easier if you're tall. -
Should be on the top 100. 3rd try. Best starting moves on an outdoor climb maybe ever?? -
Destroyed my skin
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Just about flashed this rig! Such a fun climb!! Too bad I did not get a video of the send so I could watch myself climb it over and over while on the loo
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No fun -
sweet, beta instensive line with powerful moves and a tricky end
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All time fun and solid for the grade -
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Quite neato. Being a bit taller definitely lessens the difficulty.
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Physical -
Slap and pull
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Violent! -
Roof moves are A++ -
Day Flash -
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Thuggy!
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burly and excellent
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awesome boulder -
Absolutely one of the best, happy to have ticked it fast. Contender for my favorite Squamish climb. Where that Top100 icon at?!
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That first move took me several tries...loved that climb. A mix of powerfull and techy ones as well!!!
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Took a few sessions but i’m glad I kept coming back. I never got tired of making the move to the lip. Varied and awesome! My first of the grade. -
Surprisingly A2 friendly for both hands.
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One of the best!
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Cool movement
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Psyched. Just possible at my height...prob hard 8 lower end 9 for me since my beta is so specific. Took a heartbreaking fall at the top before my send.
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Really fun! Classic sticky squamish granite.
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Great climb, very fun roof
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2017-07-25 -
2017-07-25
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Powerful, amazing roof, a bit sharp. -
Loved the power roof climbing to tricky mantel. The problem has two distinct pieces.
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Ayesha with the pin point beta -
Such a great climb! Didn't think I was going to be able to get the roof and over the lip part due to my height. But 4 sessions later, got my beta dialed and got the send. Soooo stoked!
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Amazing movement in the cave
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Without the first move it wouldn't be that fun
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I fixed that car good. -
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2016-09-28Woo! Great climb. Thanks for the spot dad! First try of the day.
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First Ibuprofen fueled climb...thought I could do it quickly in a few goes, but had to battle with this one for 2 sessions. Physical!
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So much fun!
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Such a good boulder.
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Love this thing
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sick roof climb, cool mantel beta. 4 or 5 goes
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2016-07-25
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Amazing Line fun movement! Quick send thanks to some amazing beta. -
yay ! liked my beta a lot, made the moves flow nicely :D
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2016-03-28Nasty gross looking bump and hump beta - can't believe I hadn't tried this before - have seen a lot of videos though so no Onsight.
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Quintessential Squamish problem. A bit of power and a bit of technique. -
2015-05-21
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Nemesis of mine. Blew my knee on it last year. Feels good to come back and smash it.
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2014-08-09first v8! second try after figuring out the beta.
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I thought this was easy and got through the low crux on the first or second go. It then took me another whole session to send the thing! Deceptive! Kept on dropping the top.
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I thought this was easy and got through the low crux on the first or second go. It then took me another whole session to send the thing! Deceptive! Kept on dropping the top.
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Must do! One of my favorites so far.
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Sent it at the Second go!! This climb is fking amazing -
2014-05-06
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2014-04-12Tried a lot of things I wanted to try this year today and glad this one went in a session. Awesome problem
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nice crisp day, worked it a tiny bit last year got it second go :) -
2013-11-17
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Good combination of roof climbing, slopers, throwing to a jug and using a mantle One of my favorites!
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2013-08-06
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2013-08-05
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Very aesthetic!! -
V8Anonymous User2013-07-25
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Finally got it!!!:)
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Some trick beta saved the day. -
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2012-08-30
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2012-08-01
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Fun little line with a cool sequence.
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Well, when you know all the beta, it goes pretty quickly... -
Someone broke the starting right crimp, but it wasn't me! Still good movement though.
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2011-08-24
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So cool! I really like.
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8 top 100s and 55 points today! Not too bad with my gimp arm. Think I gave Jamie a bit of a scare on this one. Second try.
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V8Anonymous User2010-08-24
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2010-08-20Top on my list before getting to Canada, extremely cool roof climb into an awkward top-out. If not for the dab factor it would have been a perfect problem
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2010-08-14super fun -
cool roof, super soft, couldnt figure out the beta till i tried...charlie sent with my beta right after, send train! more like v6?
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Bunged the first move them sent second go.... Physical but easier than it looks.
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fun!
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second v8 - two in one day, sent it first try this year
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aka Fixing the Car
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For warmup this morning :D
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2009-05-22
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Neat Roof Problem
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2008-08-143rd try! Great moves, but felt soft.
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Really cool movements, maybe my favourite of the grade in the forest. (+ confirmation send)
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V8 ↓Anonymous User
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Repeat from 2018. my first v8. -
0
onsights8
flashes216
redpointsTotal Sends: 224
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