The Angel Dyno – V7 ↓
Description:
A large move or a static cross, this problem has two unique ways of doing the crux. First established by John Long as a dyno, it was repeated by Ron Kauk and Lynn Hill as a static move that eliminated the difficulty of holding a large dynamic swing. A classic for the area it is an aesthetic climb that is a great transition for a gym climber onto rock.
Show Beta
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Zach Y: https://www.instagram.com/p/CYgD2mNJnj3/ Keep the right foot low and get the left on the start hold once you have the left jug and small crimp. Then just rock way up on your left knee and hit the double clutch. Feels very natural. -
Braeden Price: Very small crimp out right is a huge asset.
Recent Sendage:
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2nd try. Not hard just committing -
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2024-02-13
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Smoothest dyno I've done outdoors
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Hucked up right arm. Tall lanky beta. -
Fun!!
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Most satisfying move I've done on rock. -
Definitely in the top 5 moves I’ve ever done on a boulder. A sublime experience from top to bottom.
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Mers birthday for funzies climb -
Usually I'm terrible at dynos.
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Really fun! I loved this one. Nice flow and an obvious crux. Super cool. Loving Red Rocks bouldering so far! -
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2022-10-18
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Definitely a must try in red rock! -
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2022-02-28Very cool
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Fly like an eagle, let my spirit carry me!
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Perfect movement
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Fun one
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Taking the guidebook 8 for this one. Did the dyno, it seems sacrilegious to use the bump beta. -
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Cross Beta.
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Finally! 1-2 for the win! -
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Short. Explosive. Picture-esque.
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floaty -
An incredible-feeling move on perfect holds.
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Wow. First try today.
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Biffed flash. Had my first "holy shit this little ass gym kid is kicking my ass" moment today.
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2018-11-20 -
Big boy beta
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2018-11-10This thing was hugely my anti-style and felt really hard for me as a result; very glad to have gotten revenge on this after a bad injury off it in February!
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Third go -
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heavenly, if you like dynos -
2018-02-17
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2017-11-02
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I hate admitting this is great but... T_T
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Tried this on my first trip to Red Rock in 2014 - always felt impossibly difficult to me. Hurt my shoulder on a bad fall a while back, hadn't tried it since. Went out this morning with Luke and Erin and stuck the heel hook move on Progressive Guy for the first time, but then couldn't link it. Jumped on this, fell, then decided to switch up my foot beta for the first time since I first tried it... and sent first go. Hiked up to the Slap, repeated the left exit and watched Luke and Erin both match their high points on the full line. They are both agonizingly close! Will be bittersweet when they send - lots of great days and nights spent up there. Finished off the day by doing all the moves on Stake Your Claim (and watching some French dude absolutely cruise Book of Nightmares) - will be back soon! EDIT - "french dude" was Nils Favre, and he also did Medowlark and Kintsugi on his trip. -
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2nd
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Deadpoint tall mans beta. Right foot stays on whee.
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Cool. LH. -
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Another classic down! 2nd go -
Wow. So much fun it's crazy. V6 for my height (6' 1")
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2015-12-16
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V7Anonymous User2015-01-10
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Fantastic -
2015-01-03Did the right hand dyno method without the crimp
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2014-11-11This never felt close on previous trips, but came together fairly quickly this time despite not feeling particularly strong at the moment. -
Had heard of this problem and decided I would give it a go. It looked probable, so after five attempts or so I stuck it! My first harder dyno problem, very happy to have completed it.
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Silly to grade. I'd take V6, I'd even take V5. Did it with and without the crimp...the former method I nearly kept my foot on.
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2014-02-22
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Favorite boulder of the trip - did not use the crimp, obvs! 73 v-points on first boulder day :)
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Sweet moves.
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2013-12-21Left Exit
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Lucky to find a lot of pads under this one!
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Soooo fun.
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V7Anonymous User2012-12-29
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super fun shoulder jump
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I love every boulder problem. -
Such a rad Boulder Problem! Somewhat exciting spinning off the top. -
Cool! Big Dyno when you're 5 feet tall...
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2011-11-30thrilling send!
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Fly! Used the crimp, don't judge me!
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First Burn today, so burly, almost fell.
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Took me a long time. The send felt like every other time I hit the hold but this time it stuck. Classic John Long dyno!!
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Way to cool!
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Finally, seemed easier once I knew what to do or rather what not to do.
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I suck at dynos! Took several tries to stick it then it was over. Nice rock.
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i love dynos :-)
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2008-12-21
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!!!
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V7 ↓Anonymous User
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big move for little man
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1
onsights13
flashes91
redpointsTotal Sends: 105
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