Palisades Park

15 Sport Climbs, 5 Trad Climbs

Description: edit

Located near the heart of Oneonta, Palisades is a state park with a nice little cliffline running just below its parking lot. There's a good range of climbing difficulty, ranging from easy 5.4 up to roofy 5.12. Because everything can be easily toproped, it's a perfect place for a beginner's first outdoor climbing experience. And if you're just getting started on trad, Palisades is an excellent training ground; routes like Buckets (5.5) offer easy leading and plentiful protection. Be aware, though, that the grades tend to be sandbagged; Elephant Crack (5.6) and Box Lunch (5.7) are not for the novice leader. There's no sport climbing at Palisades. Two-bolt anchors are at the top of most routes to set up a top-rope.

All climbers must register at the park office and buy a $5 climbing permit (this is good for two weeks). From the parking lot, head for the cliff top near a picnic pavillion and scramble down a fourth-class gully/chimney to the base of the cliff.

The Dixie Cragger's Atlas is a good resource for routes at Palisades.

NOTE: All "subareas" are part of the same cliff line.

Directions / Travel Info: edit

From Birmingham, take I-59 North towards Gadsden. Take exit 166 toward Oneonta, and turn left onto US 231. In downtown Oneonta, US 231 intersects with 2nd Ave East. Turn left onto 2nd Ave East then immediately turn right to continue on US 231. Keep right at the top of the hill to continue on US 231. In about 2 miles, turn right at the sign for Palisades Park onto Ebell Road. In less than 2 miles, turn right at the stone sign for Palisades Park onto Palisades Pkwy. The road continues to the top of the hill into Palisades Park. Parking, the park office, and the cliff line are all very obvious.

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