Muscle Beach (Upper)

14 Sport Climbs


Muscle Beach was created mostly in part by Cody Leyden, who is a prolific bolter in the region. "MB" as it is affectionately known as is as steep as is gets in Skaha. This crag has two tiers of wall the lower and the upper. The lower has moderate vertical climbs much like limestone in style. While the upper has short but incredibly power routes that take angular holds through roofs. Most of the routes are fixed, but bring draws and your biceps.

Guidebook Description:

For Thuggy, overhanging sport climbing, MB is hard to beat. The large roof that slices through the blocky overhangs on the upper wall produces routes that are both bouldery and very pumpy. The climbing here is reminiscent of Rifle, Colorado, and many routes have a three-dimensional feel that benefits from knee-bar trickery. The lower wall is home to a worthwhile collection of 5.11's, but the upper wall is where the action is at, and for this, you'll need to climb at least 5.12-. Bring your guns.

Directions / Travel Info:

The fastest way to reach MB (25 min) is from the south end of Evergreen Drive (see Foreplay Area introduction notes and map). If you use this approach, please carpool and be smart about parking - Don't block access to the chained gate, the yellow gate, or any driveway. From the end of the pavement, follow a dirt road up and over a small hill beside a house and then head south for 10 minutes until the road curves left underneath powerlines. Foreplay cliff is now visible ahead on the left. Continue hiking southward along the road, passing Foreplay, until you near a gate. About 50 metres before the gate, turn left and hike uphill away from the road on a faint trail. When you reach a trail junction, keep right and MB will soon appear up to the left. Follow a rough trail through talus to the base of the lower wall. It's also possible to approach MB by dropping below The Prow (see map) and following a faint trail for ten minutes through the forest to the talus below the cliff.

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