Black Crag / Black's Link

4 Sport Climbs


Guidebook by Francis Haden and Rich Cuncliffe

Black Crag is an easily accessible south-facing cliff of enjoyable HK island broken-slab
climbing with a fantastic view out over the south of the island. It is two hundred metres
below and left of the existing traditionally protected climbing on Blacks Link Outcrop,
both easily visible from Blacks Link. Note: Blacks Link Outcrop is the prominent crag with
an overhanging nose to the upper right on the skyline.
There are known to be two existing traditional routes on Black Crag. Based on available
information and the vintage of climbing equipment found in the bushes at the base of the
crag, they are presumed to have originally been climbed in the 1970's. The names of
these climbs have not come to light, so they are named as ORIGINAL ROUTE and
RIGHT HAND ROUTE in recognition of their early ascents.
In general, Black Crag is a low grade climbing venue, with the difficulty graded between
F5 and F6a for most climbs. As such it is expected that Black Crag will become one of
the most popular venues on Hong Kong Island for the ease of access and comparatively
large number of similar grade routes adjacent to one another. The rock quality is
particularly good, the routes of reasonable length and they are well equipped with
marine grade stainless steel bolts and rappel rings.

Directions / Travel Info:

Guidebook by Francis Haden and Rich Cuncliffe

The most convenient approach involves a taxi to the end of Blacks Link Road, as
accessed from Wong Nai Chung Gap. If using public transport, walk up Blacks Link
Road from the bus stops on Wong Nai Chung Gap Road, adjacent to the petrol station.
From the end of Blacks Link Road, walk westwards along Blacks Link trending uphill for
about 300m to a white painted concrete water culvert on the right hand side, marked as
“BL63". Walk into bushes on the right of the culvert and head right, up into the woods
then bearing left and zig-zagging up following the purple string-tags hung on the
branches until you reach a short handline fixed to a single bolt. The start of Black Bomb
and Paint it Black is off to the left whereas continuing up past the short hand line
immediately leads to a second handline above and where it terminates, the start of
routes 19 – 23 in the bay above. Slightly further ahead, a final hand line traverses the
slab to the Main Wall and purpose made belay platforms concocted for the discerning
climbers’ comfort (thanks to Paul Collis and co).

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