Solomon McMorran
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- 5.12a ↓
- 5.13aThese 40m routes deserve more traffic! Great rock and movement quality once you get past the first set of anchors. The crux comes at the steepest section of the wall where you’ll want warm fingers. I thought Propensity was slightly higher quality. Skipped several draws and used a couple extenders to minimize rope drag. 4th go.
- 5.12a ↓
- 5.13bExceptional quality and approachable for the grade! None of the moves are too difficult in isolation, which made me think it would go down quickly after the first session. I was wrong. The sustained movement and techy sequencing is deceptively tricky when linking from the ground. If you are in Victoria, this line is certainly worth the trek!
- 5.12dFun technical climbing with some spice. Fortunately I did not take the whip despite going up blind. The holds were better than I expected given the climb’s reputation. Direct start is a worthwhile addition! 3rd go.
- 5.12dWhat a mega pitch! Potentially my favourite of the summer. Three distinct, tricky sequences, separated by good rests and enjoyable movement, all on immaculate stone. If you make it to the first set of anchors, take your time to enjoy the scenery before starting up the second-half. You can lower to the ground on a 70m rope to greatly reduce the faff. 3rd go.
- 5.12c ↑Not my preferred style, but I appreciate the flow and uniqueness of the movement through the crux. I did not find the top to be an issue. The crux of that sequence may be learning how to properly rest on the jug(s) below.
- 5.12bLiked this climb more than I anticipated when viewing it from the ground. An interesting boulder problem followed by enjoyable climbing to the chains.
- 5.12b ↓Techy, interesting movement. You don’t need to pull too hard if you trust your feet! I went out right at the crux. 2nd go.
- 5.12a
- 5.11dRetro flash
- 5.12a
- 5.12a2nd go.
- 5.12a2nd go sometime during the summer of ‘22
