Wet Dreams

Sweet crack trending left, the start is a bit tricky but the route is brilliant and well protected. P1 5.7, 50m head to the diagonal finger/hand crack, belay at a ledge. P2 5.9, 55m Head up the ledge above, traverse left and meetup with the left leaning diagonal crack system. you have a pin/fixed nut below the roof if you feel like having an intermediate belay (add more gear and it's 5.7 up to there). Follow the left facing corner up to the roof, pull through it. keep heading up and cross another bail anchor of sling+ring. Head up through the cleft in the wall, this last portion before the anchor is committing and not obvious to protect but once you figure it out it's a breeze. The route used to go on for another pitch or two but the rock up there is extremely unstable and should be avoided. Protection Double rack, some bolted belay/rap.