Description:

8. Trans Canada **** 10c Mixed 11 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Dean Flick, Eric Dafou; September 19 and 21, 2011.
First Ascent: Ruedi Beglinger and Dean Flick, September 24, 2011.
Gear: BD Camalots 0.5 to 1, 16 draws, 4 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Trans Canada starts 30 meters east of Return of the Osprey, at the lowest part of the Victor Lake Wall. As you walk up the approach trail, shortly below the Victor Lake Wall take the trail turnoff to the right (sign). Follow the fix rope past the start of Return of the Osprey, for another 30 meters to the start of Trans Canada and Pan-America, single bolt.
Route:
Pitch 1): Climb a shallow buttress (bolts, 5.10b) and after climb diagonally up to the right, across slabs and short walls (bolts, 5.10a) to the belay, 55 m.


Pitch 2): Climb straight up for several bolts (bolts, 5.10b), after traverse to the right across large slabs for 35 meters, to the belay, 60 m. (If you need to bail, you can rappel straight down from this anchor, 25m / 30m).

Pitch 3): Climb straight up slabs (bolts, 5.10b) to a large ledge. From there climb a corner to the next belay, 37 m.

Pitch 4): Climb diagonally up to the right, to the prominent arête. After, climb this great arête to the above slabs (bolts, 5.8). Keep climbing straight up the slabs (bolts, 5.9) to the belay at a ledge, 38 m.

Pitch 5): Climb straight up a buttress (bolts, 5.10c) to the above ledge. There traverse a few meters to the right, to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 6): Climb straight up (bolts, 5.9) to the Goat Ledge above. Continue on straight up to the next belay, 32 m. (This is where you can bail from the climb, if so walk westward along the Goat Ledge, fix ropes, and rappel the Baldwin start of the Ninth Symphony).

Pitch 7): Climb straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to the next belay, 30 m.

Pitch 8): Climb straight up a steep right facing corner system (bolts, 5.10c) to the next belay at a small ledge and corner, 36 m.

Pitch 9): Climb diagonally up to the right into the second corner, from this corner move diagonally up to the left (bolts, 5.9) to a prominent ledge. There climb straight up large slabs (bolts, 5.9) to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 10): (Do not follow the bolts leading straight, Trans Canada). Instead, follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the right, to a groove. From this groove climb diagonally up to the right to the next belay (bolts, 5.6), 37 m.

Pitch 11): Traverse for a few steps to the right, after climb straight up (bolts, 5.7). From there climb 30 meters to the right (bolts, 5.5), to the next belay, 40 m. The greatest lower grades pitch in Revelstoke.

Pitch 12): Keep traversing to the right (bolts, 5.4) to the next belay in a deep left facing corner, 35 m.

Pitch 13): Climb diagonally up to the right, a short ramp (bolt, 5.7), leading into a prominent deep corner with a fist and hand crack. Climb this corner to its upper end (5.10b). After this corner traverse 2 meters to the right around an arête and climb a short slab to the belay at the ledge above, 35 m.

Pitch 14): This route keeps going on …. Traverse 18 meters to the right, after climb steep straight up (bolts, 5.10c) to the next belay, 25 m.

Pitch 15): Traverse with lots of air below your feet exposed to the left (bolts, 5.10b). After climb steep straight up past a roof (bolts, 5.10c) to the above final wall. Keep climbing straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to the end of this grand route, 35 m. Belay at a Fir tree.