Train in vain – 5.12a
Description:
One of the first 5.12s on the escarpment, and one of the first to be developed top-down. Originally a mixed bag of pins, bolts and gear, this visionary line has completed its multi-staged evolution from Mid-Atlantic testpiece to modern sport route. In 2016, it has finally been bolted to the groun by way of it's original start (instead of climbing the 5.8 corner to the left that many people have adopted as the start)
Clip glue-ins up 5.9 slabiness to a small ledge below the difficulties. Power through the crux roof and try and keep it together for the send.
Over the years, climbers trying to avoid the gear start would do all sorts of trickery including traversing in from Young At Heart(Forever Young). Don't be surprised if people still tell you its a fun way to start the route.
FA: Dave Georger, David Smart
FFA: David Smart (1985)
Recent Sendage:
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2024-07-28Punted the top twice, once during warm up and then once again until the 3rd try : | -
2024-07-064 stars for the historical factor and nice rock after crux. Hard crux moves, specific for every body type I guess and took me a while to work out. Pumpy to chains, dropped it at anchors last year and went back for revenge!
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2024-05-23Damn that was hard to unlock the beta. But went down easy once you know what works for your body type. -
2023-09-053rd go, 40degree heat and humidity send, let's goo
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2023-09-02Fun climbing, first-go Ontario for a change
