Stanley Fever – 5.11c (trad)


5.11d, 132m, bolts + gear
Established by Gery Unterasinger, 2019. Start around 100m left of Nemesis, just below and left of the lower, rightmost obvious triangular yellow roof. Rappel route on single 60m rope. All anchors are fixed for rappel. Gear: 11 draws + small rack of cams 0.3 – #2. Bring a helmet. All information is approximate.

Pitch 1 – 5.11d, 30m – A pumpy start! Carefully climb loose 5.9ish pillar passing two bolts and clipping but not stopping at the first anchor ~10m up. Make a sequence up and right, then follow sustained climbing and a final short crux at the last bolt to a semi-hanging belay at a large white flake. From here, it is a 30m rappel on a single 60m rope. 11 Bolts, no gear.

Pitch 2 – 5.11b/c, 29m – Sustained with a tricky crux. Follow 3 bolts, then step left to better rock and good gear in a good crack. Avoid the dirtier crack to the right. Climb up and clip 2 pitons (top one loose), and make a cruxy tricky traverse right to better holds and a stance. From here, follow sustained climbing up the crack, placing gear, then passing 2 more bolts and a piton to a funky mantle, and a comfortable sit-down ledge/anchor. 5 bolts, 2 pitons + gear.

Pitch 3 – 5th Class, 22m – Climb up 3m to a bolt, then head right up easy but loose 5th class terrain. Follow the easiest line up until you can move back left to a comfortable ledge and an anchor in the corner to the left. Do not continue right up the very big corner.

Pitch 4 – 5.11a, 25m – Follow steep stemming corner through 5 bolts, avoiding loose flakes on the left. Step left and follow easy 5.8 to the anchor at a comfy ledge with Optional gear. 5 bolts + optional gear.

Pitch 5 – 5.11b, 26m – An absolutely amazing pitch! Head right immediately from the anchors great holds around the arete and follow good rock to a short-lived crux at the 2nd bolt (move right slightly around the arete for better holds). Swim up the rest of this glorious pitch, placing great gear and passing a final bolt before arriving at a “clip and go” anchor where you can lower back to the ledge. 4 bolts + 1 piton + gear.

Rappel the route with a 60m rope.

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.11c
  • 5.11c
    Absolutely amazing line. The first and second pitches felt similar in grade (that is, tricky and pretty sustained!) while the last two were much more relaxed. The final pitch is absolutely glorious!
  • 5.11c
    Fun route! First pitch is a doozie and likely to shred anything soft (skin, clothes, ego…)
  • 5.11c
  • 5.11c
    The last pitch is incredible