Primal Dream – 5.10b

51m / 167ft, 12 bolts


Many only climb the first pitch, which is good, but this misses the quality crack and face climbing above.

Pitch 1 (5.10b, 9 bolts plus 1 medium-sized nut, 31m) A tough start leads to an easier face and a fun corner.

Pitch 2 (5.10a, 3 bolts, SR, 20m) Flakes lead to immaculate rock near the top. Walk off or rappel to descend.

FA: Gary Wolkoff, 1990.

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.10b
    Hard for 10b, start is tough with high clip. Stick clip might be helpful
  • 5.10b
    Just the first pitch, need to do the 2nd too
  • 5.10b
    Fun first pitch, continuing up the second ended up being an exercise in lichen and rope drag…
  • 5.10b
    Deserves way more traffic than it gets these days.
  • 5.10b
    Adventurous route, long with some cool exposure