Description:

4. Mystery ***** Amongst Canada's greatest multi pitch sport routes! A great route to climb, even if you might have to pull on some bolts…! 5.12c SPORT 12p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Alex Geary and Cam Molder, June 23, 2013
First Ascent: Jonas Gessler and Ruedi Beglinger, September 16, 2013
Gear: 19 draws, 2 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:
Pitch 1): (Baldwin) Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. From there, aim diagonally up to the right to the base a large corner with the first belay, 15 m.

Pitch 2): (Baldwin) Traverse a few steps to the right and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.11b) to a sloping ledge above with the belay, 35 m.


Pitch 3): (Baldwin) Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.7) and eventually traverse level to the left, to the large Fir tree with the belay chain, 35 m.

Pitch 4): (Mission) Walk diagonally up to the right for 25 meters and after aim straight up a slab and a corner (bolts, 5.4). From the upper end of this corner, scramble straight up to the 2 anchors above. Use the right-hand (east) anchor.

Pitch 5): Climb straight up to below a small roof (bolts, 5.9). From below this roof traverse a few moves to the right and after keep climbing straight up (bolts 5.10a) to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 6): Climb straight up, following the many bolts (sustained 5.12c) to the next belay, 37 m.

Pitch 7): Climb straight up to a prominent arête to its upper end (bolts, 5.11a). Step around this arête and after climb straight up a steep slab (bolts, 5.11b) to the corner system above. Climb up this steep corner system (bolts, 5.11c) and eventually step to the left around a steep arête. Keep climbing straight up to a ledge with the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 8): Climb straight up to a small roof (bolts, 5.11a). From there climb diagonally up to the right and eventually aim straight up (bolts) to a large ramp. (Do not follow the bolts leading at your left straight up, Ninth Symphony). Instead climb diagonally up to the right, following the ramp for a few meters, eventually climb straight up to a ledge and the large overhang above, belay, 38 m.

Pitch 9): Climb a few meters straight up into the large overhang (bolts) and after traverse exposed above the right-hand overhang for a few meters to the right (bolts, 5.11b). (Do not traverse into the large corner at the far right, The Mission). A few meters prior this corner climb straight up the steep wall to the belay, 25 m.

Pitch 10): Climb a few meters diagonally up to the right, after traverse (bolts, 5.11b) into a right facing corner. Now move straight up to the belay, located in a right facing corner and directly below a small roof, 30 m.

Pitch 11): Climb a double roof (bolts, 5.10b) to a large sloping ledge above. From there, traverse for 15 meters to the right (bolts), into a deep corner with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 12): Traverse to the right, in between the roofs, into a steep corner (bolts, 5.12c). Move up this corner to the large roof above. From there traverse exposed to the right, to the belay, 25 m. Enjoy the grand vista.

Pitch 13): Climb straight up easy slabs to the large ledge above (bolt, 5.4) with the final anchor, 20 m.