Description:

Starting from Hermit Meadows Campground (a 2.5 hour slog from the Hermit parking lot), follow a beaten path and cairns across stunning meadows and waterfalls to a low point in the west ridge where it crests above the Swiss/Tupper glacier. Follow the ridge (3rd - 4th class) as closely as possibly, taking the easiest path through the blocks until you reach a large gendarme. Follow an easy ledge system to the right and just below of the gendarme. Climb a steepening wall until it reaches the 5.6 crux corner (or 5.3 chimney). From the top, follow low 5th class steps to the final summit block, where a beautiful exposed 5.3 corner takes you to the large flat summit.

To descend, retrace your steps. Bolted Rappel anchors exist just below the summit block, at the top of the 5.6 corner, and below/left of the hermit gendarme. There is also plenty of Rap Tat along the way if you prefer to rappel some of the chossy bits rather than downclimb.

Allow 6-12 hours return from Hermit Meadows.