Little Jupiter, second anchor – 5.12b

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12b
    2019-11-21
    The Country is fucking rad. Where else would you mantle a potato, climb a perfect stem corner, get a toe hook and a knee bar on a vertical climb, do a no hands move and a clip while balancing on 2 plutons, and get rewarded with 2 final bolts of jug pockets? The cracks at the beginning were soaked, but I had my heart set on climbing this so I dried it off with Jake’s font rag before each attempt. The pods at the top were also wet, but we left those as pools so I could high-five the pond creatures at the top. Made some banana bread to bring out for Reed, Madi, and Ponytail John (who today was Johnny Picklepants). Originally had Jake quadruple extend the draw above the crux so I could clip it before the scary smear levitation, but turned out I couldn’t even reach that, so I just sucked it up and did the crux without clipping. Guidebook says 5.12... Reed and Jake say 12b so I’ll go with that. Also, learned something seemingly non-obvious today: Nubs are very pointer finger intensive holds, as evidenced by the destruction done to my skin... maybe that’s why they’re called INDEX fingers