Kujira – V13

FA: hunterlee - 2023-11-19


This power endurance test piece adds a difficult traverse into Shamu. Sit-start matched on the sloper rail on the far right end of the Shamu platform, traverse left into the start jug of Shamu and finish for that problem.

Kujira means Whale in Japanese.

Recent Sendage:

  • V13
    2023-11-19 (FA)
    This line was a journey. Last year I sent Shamu relatively quickly and saw potential for a lower start. I got three sessions before the winter rolled in with the moves somewhat figured out (other than the last moves to establish the start jug of Shamu) and an idea of what I need to train to link the last move(s). This boulder was the first time I felt truly limited by my mobility. I went to Move to Move and they were able to give me some exercises to help with some specifics for this boulder. This was the first time I’ve ever done any training specifically for one climb. I didn’t go back to the boulder for nearly 9 months. I went up with low expectations and somehow managed to hit a new high point on the first session back. The mobility training worked but the beta I had in mind didn’t. Day 8 at Shamu, I figured out the last two moves – it goes. Day 9, I made it through the low which felt like the hardest boulder I’ve ever climbed on its own. Day 14 – I punted the Shamu topout from the low. Day 17 – I broke a key undercling on the low (still there but smaller - now it feels like the new crux). Day 20 - I made it through the low with the new hold. Day 25 – I sent. Grade wise, this line is similar to Black Magic in Squamish; two stout double digit sections separated by a kneebar rest. Most V11s I’ve worked on I’ve been able to send in 1-3 sessions. Most V12’s I’ve been on felt easier than this low start sequence (without Shamu). The sequence I used to climb through the low sequence felt like V12 on its own and has some of the hardest moves I’ve ever stuck. I’m sticking with V13. This boulder was immensely satisfying to work through and hopefully some people stronger than me get on it. Big thanks to the 14+ people that went up there for support through the sessions and congrats on your sends!