Description:

Improbable v11, FA
This ascent is the result of an accumulation of around 12+ sessions trying this slab over the course of 2021, when I lived in Alberta. It was quite the transformative process figuring out how to climb up this improbable face. When I first started trying this slab I intended to climb directly up the middle. I cleaned moss off the footholds, possible handholds and that sidepull crimp (that was being used as a gaston at the time) broke a few times until it became solid. There is an obvious horizontal sloper rail in the middle of the face I was aiming for but after further inspection on a rope I realized I could not hold it. So I had to find an alternative passage. I knew I had to utilize the sidepull crimp somehow, as it was the best hold on the entire face but getting to it was the issue. I eventually found a tiny, slopped, slippery foothold beneath the sidepull that was about a quarter the size of my pinky nail. I was able to utilize it in a sort of jump start fashion to get to the sidepull. This starting style is not very ideal in my opinion but it was the only way I could make it work.
Alternatively, there are two opposing feet lower that I was able to establish on with no handholds but moving from them into a higher position will be some next level, wizardly slab skills. It would be interesting if a lower start would ever be established because it would be the two feet that would indicate the start, rather than a typical low start where the hands are generally indicated. Through this whole process I certainly learned one thing, this slab is damn hard and certainly the hardest slab I’ve ever attempted. I’ve accomplished multiple v9 slabs in a session or two (on sandstone and other rock types comparatively) so this is why I am allocating a proposed grade of v11 because it is multiple steps harder than all of those. It may be one of the hardest, pure slab boulder problems in the country and I invite all slab masters to come to Skyline and give it a try. It is unfortunately morpho with the last move being quite the large lunge so being taller will definitely help but also being light on your feet is a must. The Improbable slab goes and it is my proudest first ascent to date.