Description:

FA: Andy Genereux, 1989

Equipped top-down in 1986 by Andy (after free-soloing with a heavy pack what would later become the Hoover Dam Access Route and starting pitches of Cory's Groove), this slab masterpiece climbs an improbable collection of gastunderclings and runnels up the middle of the face of the eponymous Hoover Dam.

The homemade hangers and hand-drilled Star self-drive studs were replaced in 2020 with modern hardware, and with Andy's permission two retrobolts were added: one to protect a direct start, and another to protect a sequence involving a fragile flake (these are the new 1st & 3rd bolts). If you ain't down with these filthy retrobolts, then bring a light rack of cams and some triple length slings (the gear is good, but awkwardly located). Either way, the character of the route will still feel desperate and a little spicy.

45m, 15 bolts (including anchors). The first set of anchors you'll encounter is only for descending; the route continues for 3 more bolts and ends at a better stance. 70m rope mandatory!