Free Bird – 5.13b


18m / 59ft, 9 bolts

Description:

The current most difficult route at the lake. Small holds and overhangs 8-10' over its length. The route the furthest right (downhill) of the right continuous wall. To the left of "More Questions than Answers".10+

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.13b
    2023-09-19
    This one was a battle. Started working it before I had any business doing so and turned into an epic as a result. Went when my climbing caught up to this one. Kept refining beta up until the send and made some major changes to the RP crux just before the send which made it go. So many tries with the wrong method but that's climbing. I dug in this year to make sure it didn't extend into another season. I climbed it very differently to Mike so if his Beta doesn't fit you, contact me!
  • 5.13b
    2022-10-22
    Repeat. Sent this climb Oct 2013. Took more sessions than I wanted it to to repeat. What was supposed to be just a few training sessions turned into more of a project than I had anticipated. I wanted to prove to my younger self 9 years ago that I had become a better climber. Not sure if I managed to do that…Fell off the last hard move multiple times per session for a few sessions before finally doing it. Very specific type of climbing fitness required. Pure resistance with powerful and technical moves requiring perfect feet placement and a lot of body tension. Like for my first send of this I had to train specifically for the route to get the required fitness; just a bit less this time! I think this is hard for 13b and could be low-end 13c. Amazing route nonetheless and should be on the to-do list of every North/mid Island 5.13 climber!