Description:

46. Eternity *** Adventure and amazing climbing with great exposure… what are you waiting for. Eternity is a link-up of the lower part of the wall with the Hanging Judge at the upper end of the wall. The climb gets increasingly better and more impressive as you get higher on the route. 10b MIXED 13 p
Established, FFA: Ruedi Beglinger, Nicoline Beglinger, June 2009.
Important: There might be climbers lower on the route... do not drop rocks!!!
Gear: Pro 0.5 to 2 inches, 16 quick draws, six shoulder-size slings.
Approach: From Canada West Campground.
Start: At the upper end of the creek gully (bolts). Same start as for The Noose and The Last Tango.
Route: This is a classic route combining the lower pitches of The Last Tango and the high exposure of The Hanging Judge.
Pitch 1 to 4: Follow the many bolts up easier terrain up to 5.7 to the lower edge of a large ledge. 35 to 60 meter pitches.

Pitch 5: Climb onto the ledge and diagonally to the left walk across this large ledge to the base of a large slab. There climb diagonally up to the right, past a little roof to the belay of The Last Tango. From this belay do not follow the bolts leading straight up, instead follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the right, 10 more meters to the belay of Eternity, 55 meters.

Pitch 6 to 8: Climb diagonally up to the right. This will lead you over slabs, and up shallow corners to the base of a steep slab with a small roof, which is located between a shallow buttress and a large and prominent left-facing corner to the right, 5.7 to 5.10a, up to 60 meter pitches.

Pitch 9: From the belay climb the shallow buttress to its upper end, 5.9. Then step to the left into a deep corner and onto a long slab. Climb this slab diagonally up to the left, 5.9, to the belay at the lower end of a long left-facing corner, 55 meters.

Pitch 10: Climb straight up to above a small roof, 5.9. From there climb diagonally up to the left into a deep right-facing corner with a roof, 5.10a. Now step to the right and climb a large flake to ledges above, keep going straight up to the belay, located below a ledge, 45 meters.

Pitch 11: Climb onto the ledge above the belay and then follow the bolts level to the left, to the belay, which is located directly below and slightly to the right of a large left-facing corner, 25 meters. At the ledge do not take the bolts leading straight up into a deep overhang.

Pitch 12 and 13: Climb the left face of the deep left-facing corner, following the many bolts to the top of this amazing climb, 5.9 to 5.10b, 45 to 50 meter pitches.

Descent: Walk down the easy trail back to the Canada West Campground, 1 hour. From the top of the climb walk a few meters up-hill to the main trail where you will find a large tree with two clothing hooks. From this tree walk an additional 30 meters downhill. There turn off to the left and follow the marked trail down to the power-line, 40 minutes. At the power-line walk along a small road past a power-line mast, then walk down a steep bench to the road below. Now follow the road to the Canada West Campground, 1 hour from the top of the Columbia Buttress.