Dr. Octopus – 5.13a


18m / 59ft, 8 bolts
FA: Trent Hoover

Description:

The direct line to Dr.Octopus Variation. Punch it straight up on small crimps over a small bulge and continue straight up for some powerful moves on small crimps without getting sucked right (to the variation).

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.13c
    2023-10-21
    Stoked to send this line in the original fashion of the FA. A very worthy variation and worth doing in my opinion. Much more difficult than the original proposed 13a grade if done in this manner. For full value don’t go rightward beyond the second of the two good holds above the bulge. EDIT: Since someone felt the need to consolidate these and add confusion, the FA line avoids the pinch right of the blunt undercling feature.
  • 5.13a
    2023-07-05
    I enjoyed the crimpy climbing on this route. Tough on the fingers so had to dial in a good warm-up to feel solid on it.
  • 5.13a
    2019-08-16
    very painful on the skin so i found i could only try a couple times a day
  • 5.12d
    2005-08-07
  • 5.13a
    Amazing line, perfect if you like bouldering! ;) Thought it was .13a when I did it because I punched directly up to the first bolt using a hard crimp-to-blunt-undercling sequence, easier beta has been found if you dodge a bit right at the crux.