Dirty Dancing – 5.8 (trad)

Description:

Look for the obvious chimney on the left side of the wall with a big, white hole at the bottom. A spicy start leads to easier climbing above. Gear to 2".

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.8
    2023-07-03
    If you like placing gear behind detached pieces of rock, this is the climb for you
  • 5.8
    2019-06-19
    Watch the blocks down low, they are a little loose.
  • 5.8
    2017-08-13
    Dirty and in need of some gardening. Some difficult gear. Didn't love it and wouldn't suggest it to new trad climbers such as myself.
  • 5.8
    2016-08-13
    The middle of the route is great for polishing your trad skills, but as a newer trad leader I found the overhanging chimney at the bottom stiff and intimidating (felt like 5.10). Sharp boulders at the landing make for an extra consequential ground fall. A key hold required (by me) to place my first piece is a chock stone with an uncertain future...and getting a good second piece in (as you move above the large, flaring crack on the right) was difficult for this newb. The top is also a tad runout. If you're a conservative, newer trad leader like me I'd recommend top-roping or rapping the route to nail the first and second placements before you try for the lead. Fortunately, this route is easily TR accessible via a little gully around to the left.
  • 5.8
    2014-07-15
    My first official 5.8 trad send. The climb was easy but there were some tough places to put gear.