Show Beta

• 
  Matt Sourisseau:   R is a stretch unless you're onsighting - the crux gear is there, albeit small: a DMM #2 offset brass nut you can place from the ground, and then a red ballnut about half a metre higher. When you nail the crux, the ballnut is at your feet (it's solid - I actually greased off the jug on my first lead go and it held). While I found this pretty physically easy and not sustained at all, getting the locks and feet just right was very technically involved and initially skin-destroying, and then leading it was mentally nontrivial. It really seems to come down to an 8 move V4/5 before some 5.10 victory climbing, though. If the landing wasn't quite so sloped, it would be totally fine to bring a pad and boulder the start. Reach and conditions matter -- goes into full, unavoidable scorching sun around 1pm in early August.

Recent Sendage:

• _5.12c
  
  Matt Sourisseau

  _2021-08-07
  Wouldn't have tried this without Nat's psych, and wouldn't have done it without Bethany's support. Grateful for the homies!