Crazy Doctor – 5.12a

17m / 56ft, 5 bolts


This excellent thin and technical slab is a spicy lead. The name is a reference to enhanced small features found on the wall prior to bolting - not by the bolter.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz (mid-1990s)

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12a
    3rd go. I Used the left side pull but not clear to me how much easier it makes it- you still have to go through all the terrible crimps and thumb stuff which is a fun crux to work out! Going left just gives and extra rest, but going only direct you'd be able to recover in jugs after crux anyway...
  • 5.12b
    I went straight up the face avoiding the jugs out left, good flow and technical crimps. I think going left is fine as well at a lower grade but it takes away from the quality and difficulty.
  • 5.12b
    Did what I believe to be the intended 12b line without climbing left to skip the crux. Still felt a little soft for 12b.
  • 5.11c
    I climbed close left of bolt line at "crux", I clipped the bolts fine and didnt touch any of those jugs in the trees. Original "12b line" is to traverse right to the chipped and glued hold and go on right side of bolts that transitions to straight on at crux. Left side climbs like an 11. I was on flash burn and felt both sides and decided left was a better option. Super contrived crux for this to go at 12b in my opinion. One of those use this and it goes at 11 or use this and it goes at 12b lines
  • 5.12a