Crazy Doctor – 5.12a

17m / 56ft, 5 bolts


This excellent thin and technical slab is a spicy lead. The name is a reference to enhanced small features found on the wall prior to bolting - not by the bolter.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz (mid-1990s)

Show Beta

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12b
    I went straight up the face avoiding the jugs out left, good flow and technical crimps. I think going left is fine as well at a lower grade but it takes away from the quality and difficulty.
  • 5.12b
    Did what I believe to be the intended 12b line without climbing left to skip the crux. Still felt a little soft for 12b.
  • 5.11c
    I climbed close left of bolt line at "crux", I clipped the bolts fine and didnt touch any of those jugs in the trees. Original "12b line" is on right side of bolts that transitions to straight on at crux. Left side climbs like an 11. I was on flash burn and felt both sides and decided left was a better option. Super contrived crux for this to go at 12b in my opinion. One of those use this and it goes at 11 or use this and it goes at 12b lines
  • 5.12a
  • 5.11c
    Did the crux with a high foot/sidepull/one finger mantel thing up to the good holds all just left of bolt line... Just my opinion but i think its 11b/c using the sidepull to the left (which doesn't feel off route at all), and 12b straight up which ive been told is the original line.