Black Phoenix – 5.12b


20m / 66ft, 10 bolts

Description:

2nd line in at Crag Y.

This 5 star mega classic has a technical and bouldery first crux and lower half leading to a good rest right before the 2nd and harder crux (especially harder if you are shorter). Gain the mantle to a no hands rest and then finish the 5.11 climbing through the completely horizontal limestone roof.

5 Star Ken Chase classic route

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12b
    2024-06-19
    So humid I had to swim past the crux. Pretty dank climb
  • 5.12b
    2024-05-30
    One of the best at the crag. Great day with Felix and David
  • 5.12b
    2023-10-09
    Beautiful movement on this climb, 5 stars. Delicious 5.10 roof as the end
  • 5.12c
    2023-07-27
    Mega classic! First 12c. Harder than all 12bs I've done for sure, probably lands as a soft 12c I guess
  • 5.12b
    2023-06-24
    A superb route! Once Adam told me to stop fucking around, I made it to the big rest next try. Hung out for 10 minutes, then got lost on the ceiling and nearly punted the finish.