Black Phoenix – 5.12c


20m / 66ft, 10 bolts

Description:

2nd line in at Crag Y.

This 5 star mega classic has a technical and bouldery first crux and lower half leading to a good rest right before the 2nd and harder crux (especially harder if you are shorter). Gain the mantle to a no hands rest and then finish the 5.11 climbing through the completely horizontal limestone roof.

5 Star Ken Chase classic route

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12c
    2025-08-04
  • 5.12c
    2025-07-26
    Super fun climb, long and quite tricky (shorty beta ftw)
  • 5.12c
    2025-07-03
    Personal grade 12b/c but logging soft C for algorithm as I think that’s the grade for most people with normal wingspans. Techy boulders to amazing gym jugs. Amazing climb.
  • 5.12c
    2025-06-29
    First of the grade. Powered by a peanut butter sandwich
  • 5.12b
    2025-06-22
    full value route, lots of jugs and multiple no hands rest. nice!