The Big Horn – 5.8 (trad)

Description:

The route begins under the crack that splits the middle of the Brass Wall Left face and runs into the right side of a bushy ledge. Start underneath a large boulder.

Pitches 1 and 2 (5.7) follow the first two pitches of Birdland up the crack to a ledge and then up (or next to, depending on how you are feeling) the chimney system to a large bushy ledge. Bolted anchors.

Pitch 3 (5.3): Scramble left up some bouldery pillar features to the base of the enormous right-facing corner at the bottom of the obvious crack and build a trad anchor. 50 feet.

Pitch 4 (5.8): Climb the crack through the center of the varnished face. It starts wide and narrows to hand size before running into a lip, which forms the short crux of the climb with good hands but little feet. Finish up as the crack narrows to finger size with good face holds to a bolted anchor and rap slings. This pitch is the reason to climb this route!

Pitches 5 and 6 (5.7 R): Not recommended. Climb the face to the top of the cliff.

Rappel with 2 ropes; standard rack to #3

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.8
    2025-12-30
    Climbed Rawlpindi to the base of p4. Rappelled after p4.
  • 5.8
    2022-02-09
    Climbed the first two pitches of Rawlpindi to reach The Big Horn. Pitch 4 is money, so good! Crux protects well. Did not bother climbing pitches above this.