Description:

This is the approach area for scramblers seeking the upper tarn and the somewhat popular NoSeeUm Peak, for which this area is named. Indeed, it was a scramblers blog that revealed the headwall boulder to the maker of this guide. While the weather may not cooperate in Alberta at all times for climbing, this spot may reveal a days or afternoons worth of moderate distraction for those already in the area, those seeking a good weather refuge when all other areas are deluged, or just a change of scenery. Climbing can be begun with some post-holing as early as May, and into the late fall, depending on snowfall. Be aware that avalanches of snow can occur early on in the season, as well as rock-fall down the gullies at anytime. You will most likely not encounter people, and it is always a good idea to carry bear spray in the Parks. One or two pads may suffice, or three for luxury, for most problems. A spotter is always recommended. As always climbing is an inherently risky activity and it is the responsibility of the reader to follow their own good judgement regarding such activities.

Directions / Travel Info:

Just west of Lake Louise, drive 20 minutes north of the Banff Park Gate (after paying your fee), and pass two pull-outs on the right at the creek,; proceed to Mosquito Creek Campground on the left, and park there. Walk back south 1000m along highway to the trail head you passed that looks like a pullout (It is NOT RECOMMENDED to park at the gravel area with the culvert, or the smaller spot south, as Parks Canada Personnel may issue a ticket/ warning for parking at an "undesignated parking area". (Fair Warning…though one was never issued)
Note: also there is no cellular reception beyond the gate!

Find the printable PDF guide at the Southern Alberta/Rockies Bouldering Facebook page under "files".